9-October-08: Fancy Feet Movement\power endurance
Warm up: 4 x 5.7 slab
1) Silent Feet 2) High foot push
3) Low foot push 4) Open Feet/no hands
4x 5.8
1) Silent Feet 2) Same side
3) Flagging 4) feet hips hands
Training:
(1)2x 4 intervals on 5.10 tile wall
(2)Hangboard repeaters
2x 1.5 edge, 2x 1.8 edge, 4x Hard sloper. 1' rest between sets.
Cool Down: 20 minutes of stretching
Comments:
Thursday, October 9, 2008
Wednesday, October 8, 2008
7-October-08 "So fucking pumped"
So fucking pumped Sprt-spec Power-Endurance
Warm up:
3 laps on 5.7 slab route
lap 1: Silent Feet
lap 2: Pushing with high foot
lap 3: Pushing with lower foot
Training:
(1)2x 4 intervals on 5.10- (rest as long as it took to do the route)
1) 1:38,1:38,1:26,1:26
2) 1:34,1:26,1:36,1:26
1x 4 intervals on 5.10 tile wall
3:08,3:04,246,346
(2) V3 4x4
Comments: Starting off with some movement drills probably one of the best ideas I've ever implemented. I felt that in general I moved better over the course of the session than I ever have. Thursday I'm going to have to do more laps of movement focused training.
As you can see, my intervals where all over the place. I think this is due to moving a bit faster as a pump was starting to come in. However, 5.10- was too easy I was pretty much recovered by the start of the next interval. The tile wall at the gym proved to be much better for this exercise. Interval training was one of my favorite times during cross and track season.
It was a mistake to attempt a super hard 4x4 after 3 sets of intervals. I made the first three sets cleanly, but managed only one boulder problem at the start of the 3rd round. I moved over to try a V2, but had to cheat to start, and I ended up falling off anyways. I intended to do finger board repeaters, but there was no way I was hanging on to shit after the 4x4.
In the end I think this was a good power-endurance effort and I made some head way toward gaining the fitness I need to for Smith next week.
Comments: Starting off with some movement drills probably one of the best ideas I've ever implemented. I felt that in general I moved better over the course of the session than I ever have. Thursday I'm going to have to do more laps of movement focused training.
As you can see, my intervals where all over the place. I think this is due to moving a bit faster as a pump was starting to come in. However, 5.10- was too easy I was pretty much recovered by the start of the next interval. The tile wall at the gym proved to be much better for this exercise. Interval training was one of my favorite times during cross and track season.
It was a mistake to attempt a super hard 4x4 after 3 sets of intervals. I made the first three sets cleanly, but managed only one boulder problem at the start of the 3rd round. I moved over to try a V2, but had to cheat to start, and I ended up falling off anyways. I intended to do finger board repeaters, but there was no way I was hanging on to shit after the 4x4.
In the end I think this was a good power-endurance effort and I made some head way toward gaining the fitness I need to for Smith next week.
Monday, October 6, 2008
6-October-08 "Hey there Fatty"
6-October-08 Strength\core "Hey there fatty"
Warm up.
3x one foot complex.
20,25,30
Training:
AM run. Betty Ford loop 50:30
1)Work up to 1RM Push press.
125#
2)5x
4 Push press @75% 1RM max
3)4x
10Lunges #60
5 Squats #60
10 Floor presses #20
Short work out. Felt a bit rushed because there where a ton of people in the weight room at lunch. Should be short, since its a strength day. I will know how effective the work out was tomorrow. I ate a ton of sweets this weekend, hence the name "Hey there fatty"
Warm up.
3x one foot complex.
20,25,30
Training:
AM run. Betty Ford loop 50:30
1)Work up to 1RM Push press.
125#
2)5x
4 Push press @75% 1RM max
3)4x
10Lunges #60
5 Squats #60
10 Floor presses #20
Short work out. Felt a bit rushed because there where a ton of people in the weight room at lunch. Should be short, since its a strength day. I will know how effective the work out was tomorrow. I ate a ton of sweets this weekend, hence the name "Hey there fatty"
5-October-08 Project day.
5-October-O8 Project day
Warm up.
3x 5.9
Training:
2 Goes on 5.11- project route.
Flashed a V5 on 45 degree wall
Cool down:
Boulder problems
4,3,2,1,0
Comments: Only got 2 goes on my project, but I did flash my second V5 boulder problem. I need to start working V6\V7. Getting amped for Smith Trip.
Thursday, October 2, 2008
Bag full of Goodies.
Type: Technique/Spt-spec power endurance
Warm up:
25' ARC w\
2x backwards traversing 2xQuiet feet
2x Same side traversing, 2x Straight arms
15' Movement work.
Training:
(1)2x Flash V2, then break down all the moves, find more efficient way to move.
(2)1 hour 16 mins: 10x 5.9 CIR training
(3) Stretch for 20'
Comments:
I've been concerned that I haven't been making the most of my sessions. Going for onsights and redpoints just does not do it for power-endurance. Also, I don't think my movement is as good as it should be. This is why I'm getting shutdown on 5.11s or V6. I don't have the required body awarness yet, and I haven't developed enough schemas.
This was my first attempt at doing CIR training. "The Self Coached Climber" suggests going for 15 laps, or 10 if your endurance isn't up to snuff. Initially didn't think I could make 15, so I set the bar at 10. This was too low. I made it and hour and 16mins before getting kicked out of the gym. While the last lap was hard, I feel that I could've made it through 15. I could feel the breakdown though. My hands are pretty wrecked, but hopefully I can shoot for a performance day tomorrow.
I need to make it a point to streatch. I'm not as flexable as I could be. I could use the mobility, and the injury prevention.
Total work out time: 2:47:30
Warm up:
25' ARC w\
2x backwards traversing 2xQuiet feet
2x Same side traversing, 2x Straight arms
15' Movement work.
Training:
(1)2x Flash V2, then break down all the moves, find more efficient way to move.
(2)1 hour 16 mins: 10x 5.9 CIR training
(3) Stretch for 20'
Comments:
I've been concerned that I haven't been making the most of my sessions. Going for onsights and redpoints just does not do it for power-endurance. Also, I don't think my movement is as good as it should be. This is why I'm getting shutdown on 5.11s or V6. I don't have the required body awarness yet, and I haven't developed enough schemas.
This was my first attempt at doing CIR training. "The Self Coached Climber" suggests going for 15 laps, or 10 if your endurance isn't up to snuff. Initially didn't think I could make 15, so I set the bar at 10. This was too low. I made it and hour and 16mins before getting kicked out of the gym. While the last lap was hard, I feel that I could've made it through 15. I could feel the breakdown though. My hands are pretty wrecked, but hopefully I can shoot for a performance day tomorrow.
I need to make it a point to streatch. I'm not as flexable as I could be. I could use the mobility, and the injury prevention.
Total work out time: 2:47:30
29-Sept-08 Time to get Radical
Type: Sport-Specific Power-Endurance
Warm up:
1 round
10 min 5.8 ARC
10 min on Eliptical
10 min rest
Training:
(1)3x Redpoint/Onsight/Flash (No working the problem, lower off after fall)
5.10-5.11-
(2) V3/V2 4x4
Comments:
Onsighted 5.10/510- Fell on 5.10+ and .11-. Easily completed the 4x4. I need to bump it up next time and go for a V3 4x4. I'm still slightly perplexed by the fact that I can do a 4x4 at the level of a 5.12 climber, but can't make it up a 5.11...I'm wondering if this is still a mental thing, because clearly I'm fit\strong enough to make it through the crux on an easy 5.12.
I don't really feel that the RP/OS/Flash exercise is that affective as a power endurance session. The rests with three people are just too long. Perhaps with two people you have the extra push of trying to give your partner a full rest period. Some more tweeking is in order
Warm up:
1 round
10 min 5.8 ARC
10 min on Eliptical
10 min rest
Training:
(1)3x Redpoint/Onsight/Flash (No working the problem, lower off after fall)
5.10-5.11-
(2) V3/V2 4x4
Comments:
Onsighted 5.10/510- Fell on 5.10+ and .11-. Easily completed the 4x4. I need to bump it up next time and go for a V3 4x4. I'm still slightly perplexed by the fact that I can do a 4x4 at the level of a 5.12 climber, but can't make it up a 5.11...I'm wondering if this is still a mental thing, because clearly I'm fit\strong enough to make it through the crux on an easy 5.12.
I don't really feel that the RP/OS/Flash exercise is that affective as a power endurance session. The rests with three people are just too long. Perhaps with two people you have the extra push of trying to give your partner a full rest period. Some more tweeking is in order
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