Thursday, October 2, 2008

29-Sept-08 Time to get Radical

Type: Sport-Specific Power-Endurance

Warm up:
1 round
10 min 5.8 ARC
10 min on Eliptical
10 min rest

Training:
(1)3x Redpoint/Onsight/Flash (No working the problem, lower off after fall)
5.10-5.11-

(2) V3/V2 4x4

Comments:
Onsighted 5.10/510- Fell on 5.10+ and .11-. Easily completed the 4x4. I need to bump it up next time and go for a V3 4x4. I'm still slightly perplexed by the fact that I can do a 4x4 at the level of a 5.12 climber, but can't make it up a 5.11...I'm wondering if this is still a mental thing, because clearly I'm fit\strong enough to make it through the crux on an easy 5.12.
I don't really feel that the RP/OS/Flash exercise is that affective as a power endurance session. The rests with three people are just too long. Perhaps with two people you have the extra push of trying to give your partner a full rest period. Some more tweeking is in order

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